Free Shipping on orders in the U.S. over $50.00 -Orders placed between Nov. 1-Dec. 8 will be shipped Dec. 10th

Why we use various materials for stone setting

by Lynn Hines

Silversmiths avoid permanently gluing stones in their jewelry. The stones need to be easy to remove incase soldering repairs need to be done to the piece. Silversmiths use various materials between stones and metal to ensure a secure fit, protect delicate stones, and enhance the appearance of the final piece. Here are some common materials and their purposes:

1. Sawdust or plastic

  • Why? Provides a cushion for fragile stones (especially turquoise or opals), absorbs shock, and helps with slight size adjustments. 

2. Epoxy Resin or Jeweler’s Cement

  • Why? Adds extra adhesion to secure stones in place, particularly for inlay work or cabochons that don’t fit perfectly. 

3. Lead or Soft Metal Foil (e.g., Copper or Aluminum Foil)

  • Why? Creates a reflective backing to enhance the stone’s brilliance (especially for transparent stones).

4. Rubber or Silicone Pads

  • Why? Provides flexibility and shock absorption, particularly for settings with movement.

5. Cardboard or Fiberboard

  • Why? Sometimes used similarly to sawdust for cushioning and minor size adjustments. Lifts the stones if the bezel is too high. 

The best material to use between a stone and metal depends on the type of stone, the setting, and the desired outcome. Here’s a breakdown based on different needs:

For Soft or Fragile Stones (e.g., Opals, Turquoise, Amber, Lapis Lazuli)

  • Best Choice: Sawdust (wood dust) or thin rubber/silicone pad
    • Provides a natural cushion and absorbs impact, reducing the risk of cracking.

For Transparent or Reflective Stones (e.g., Quartz, Topaz, Glass Cabochons)

  • Best Choice: Metal Foil (e.g., silver or aluminum foil)
    • Enhances light reflection and makes the stone appear more vibrant.

For General Bezel Settings (Most Cabochons)

  • Best Choice: Sawdust or plastic for minor height adjustments
    • Allows adjustments while keeping the stone secure.

Some jewelers and silversmiths disagree with using materials like sawdust, epoxy, or fillers between stones and metal. The debate generally falls into a few key perspectives:

Traditional vs. Practical Approaches

  • Traditionalists argue that a properly made setting should not require fillers. They believe stones should be cut and set precisely to fit without additional materials, especially in fine jewelry (faceted gemstones).
  • Practical Jewelers (especially in Native American and Southwestern jewelry traditions) often use sawdust or epoxy to protect fragile stones like turquoise and opal, which can crack under pressure.

Concerns About Longevity

  • Sawdust Critics: Over time, sawdust can break down, absorb moisture, and shrink, leading to a loose stone.
  • Epoxy Critics: Some jewelers dislike epoxy because it can discolor, degrade, or be seen as a shortcut rather than a proper setting technique.

Conclusion

There’s no universal right or wrong—different traditions and schools of thought influence whether or not a jeweler uses cushioning materials. If making fine jewelry (faceted gemstones), it's best to use precise stone cutting and setting techniques. For artisan work, fillers can help protect stones and enhance the appearance. Lee and Lynn of L and L Silver Jewelry use sawdust and/or cardboard when needed, for pendants and earrings. They use plastic, if needed, for rings and bracelets that are more exposed to getting wet from hand washing. They avoid any form of glue or cement, incase a stone needs to be removed for soldering adjustments. 

AUTHOR: Lynn Hines with the help of AI 

 

Back to Useful Information